Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Footsteps: Journey Of An Artist "To Zagreb With Love (Zagreb, Hrvatska)"
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Podcast Episode Summary
I was dreading the long ass train ride as I remembered the trains from last year but i was happy to see a nice new air conditioned trains. A little later after passed through this Gypsies Village which Ljubin sarcastically calls the main attraction of Belgrade, I got ; to know two girls. One from Holland the other from Split who were returning from the famous Exit Festival in Novi Sad, Serbia. Apparently the Chemical Brothers show was disappointing and Missy Elliot well...no comment.
Remind me to ask Goga what the hell is up with the name of this candy...anyways.
To Zagreb With Love, I wondered if Zagreb missed me while I was gone. Last year everyone couldn't stop staring at me. Not that the people in Belgrade weren't staring and it's nothing negative but how often does a black person roll through town? Really.
Let alone one with dreads. I've seen vendors selling Jimi Hendrix, 2pac and Bob Marley t-shirts and I know i've heard Bob Marley's "Could This Be Love" playing on the local radio as well as Beyonce's CD in the music store. I guess the shock of having one walk amongst them was too surreal.
The love affair with Zagreb will have to wait, first it’s Velika Gorica to check in with Goga's aunt. Velika Gorica like many of the other towns in Zagreb have some how managed to have the old generation and the young generation living in perfect harmony. One generation is rapping, freestylin' and beat boxing while around the corner the other generation is playing botchy ball or chess. The old love the graffiti by the young and the young respect the old. I've never seen that before.
I'm sure Goga's aunt was wondering what my obsession was with sleeping on the floor but she soon came to realize that the floor was actually 10 degrees cooler than the fold out bed. There was a constant breeze which helped me sleep but not completely cause I was still trying to adjust to the 6 hour time difference. It's 4am right now which is 10:00pm back Toronto and I'll be damn if went to bed at 10:00. So I stay looking out the widow...
First, ice cream for breakfast, (a sore throat has perks i guess) then, we head into town to the bus station to find out about our bus to Rome. Goga likes to makes sure we know how long and how to get to where we are going next ahead of time. (Bus station, platform, departure time confirmation etc...) Just East of this train station on along a street called Kneza Branimira you will find some of the most beautiful and interesting graffiti which goes on and on for several blocks...
My first impression of Zagreb is the same as last year wow. You walk out the train station and a big statue of King Tomislav - the first king of the medieval state of Croatia greets you. The streets and sidewalks are so clean you can probably eat off them or play musical instruments off them, which is probably due to the fact there is a cigarette ash tray and garbage can every 100m. The park behind the statue is King Tomislav square which is always full of people, people sitting and lying on the fresh cut grass. Goga says those people are probably not from Croatia cause people from here don't walk on the grass. I'm not surprised. But there is an endless amount of people kissing, hugging and making out full throttle like no body's business, a giant orgy if you will even though the Hotel Eplanade is right around the corner.
Ok so you walk up the street.
past Zrinjevac park which is filled with those eerie Harry Potter, forbidden forest beech trees towards the main square. Oh... i should probably mention like Belgrade scooters and motorcycles rule. Cars are second followed by buses and steet cars then bicycles and lastly pedestrians. People needing to cross the road appear to be more of a nuisance so look both ways and make haste. Motorists are in a rush the get to coffee shop to relax.
Trg Bana Jelacica is the center of Zagreb and always busy. Josip himself was a ban kinda like a count of Croatia, between 1848 & 1859. He was remembered for his military campaigns during the Revolutions of 1848 amongst other things.
Hang a left and this is were the longest street in Zagreb starts with all kinds of wicked shopping. Hospitality is key. Walk into any store and I promise you as soon as you open the door and your foot crosses the line someone whether close or at the other end of the store will shout out Dobar Dan, (Good day). My secret mission was to run into stores and try to scream Dobar Dan before they do but It's nice to see stores that are original and not Westernized and repetitive. Nothing ruins your I wanna get lost in a new country mentality more than seeing shit you know from your neck of the woods.
But, it's something about my lazy, procrastinating and chilled self that attracts me to these caffe's for a few daily double espresso shots. People must sit, relax, talk and enjoy their coffee brought to you by a waiter. imagine that. As opposed to Toronto were coffee is bought to go. Simply to slow down and enjoy life for half an hour or two is my cup of coffee. I tried bringing that mentality home last year and people thought i was just being lazy, well lazier than normal. But that's how it is...and some stores still close for a few hours in the middle of the day for that very reason. It's not laziness it's so you don't lose sight of what matters. The company of friends and family.
We headed up the hill to Gorni Grad (Upper City) which overlooks Croatia to find that outdoor bar that plays chilled or live music with the speakers hanging in the trees. After a beer or two or three I started thinking about Zagreb. Zagreb is like a famous theatre in which a strict dress code is required. People here dress proper. Not all expensive but their clothes are clean and fit properly. People take care of themselves, if you look good, you feel good right. People don't throw on sweat pants to go to the grocery store, shit even Goga's Aunt dresses up before going for a neighbourhood walk. People are about hygiene and expect when drive manners. Cover your mouth when you yawn. Yeah I know you know but in Toronto you can get away with that. Here, if your caught with your mouth all hanging open people will look at you like an animal who just escaped from the zoo. Goga had to remind me a few times, good thing, like I need more reasons for people to stare at me.
My last and one of my favorite stops, Zagreb Cathedral. Tomorrow we leave for Italy.
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